EGG DISHES .sx I BELIEVE that a French cookery-book published about a century ago gives six hundred different ways of preparing eggs !sx The methods that prevail on this side of the Channel number more nearly six which would be sufficient for many of us if each , in practice , was perfect of its kind .sx With us eggs are usually boiled , poached , scrambled , or fried with bacon ; occasionally they are served en cocotte ; and sometimes as what aspires to be ( usually with qualified success ) an omelette .sx Boiled eggs must be scrupulously " new-laid , " and should be removed as soon as the white is just set .sx Poached eggs require skill in the handling , and must be carefully denuded of water when removed from the pan , for nothing is more distasteful than water-sodden toast .sx Buttered or scrambled eggs are admirable when properly prepared .sx The best I ever tasted were made by a Buchan hen-wife .sx Their excellence was due partly to the quality of the eggs and cream , and partly to her method , which was to cook them in a bowl placed in a saucepan of boiling water , stirring them till they were thick and creamy .sx The perfect omelette is rarely to be had outside the French-speaking countries .sx The omelette was not , I regret to say , one of the many benefactions conferred on the Scots kitchen by the Auld Alliance .sx The commonest error of British cooks is to over-beat the eggs , giving the omelette something of the consistency of a souffle , whereas the true omelette is more of the nature of fried scrambled eggs that is , it should be soft and creamy at the centre .sx Practice makes perfection , and in this instance pains and patience are well worth while , for once the plain omelette omelette nature is achieved , the way is open to a whole host of appetising dishes :sx omelette aux fines herbes , au jambon , au lard , au fromage , aux champignons , aux truffes , aux points d'esperges , aux foies de volaille , and innumerable other varieties , quite apart from sweet omelettes suitable for dessert .sx BOILED EGGS .sx EGGS for boiling cannot be too fresh , but a longer time should be allowed for boiling a new-laid egg than one that is three or four days old .sx Have ready a saucepan of boiling water , put the eggs into it gently with a spoon , letting the spoon touch the bottom of the saucepan before it is withdrawn to avoid cracking the shell .sx See that they are quite covered with water , and boil gently .sx For those who like eggs lightly boiled , three to three and a half minutes will be found sufficient ; four minutes' gentle boiling will lightly coagulate the white , and five minutes will set it firmly .sx A new-laid egg needs four minutes to set , and pro rata .sx An oldfashioned sand-glass is to be commended for the boiling of eggs .sx Another way is to put the eggs into cold water and bring them slowly to the boiling-point .sx They should be lightly set when the water boils .sx If wanted well done they should be left in hot water off the fire for a minute longer .sx CODDLED EGGS .sx PUT the egg into boiling water , put the lid on the pan and place it on the hearth or well back on the stove , where the water will cease to boil , but will retain its heat .sx Leave for ten minutes and then lift out .sx The white will be set but not tough , and the yolk creamy .sx Coddled eggs are more digestible than boiled ones .sx POACHED EGGS .sx EGGS for poaching should be fresh , but not new-laid ; for if poached before they have been laid thirty-six hours the white is so milky that it is almost impossible to coagulate it .sx Boil some water in a shallow stewpan , or deep frying-pan , add a pinch of salt , and allow to each pint of water a tablespoonful of vinegar , or a teaspoonful of lemon-juice .sx Break each egg into a cup , taking care to keep the yolk whole .sx When the water boils remove the pan to the side of the fire , and gently slip the egg into it .sx Tilt the pan , with a tablespoon gently fold the white of the egg over the yolk , so as to pro-duce a plump appearance .sx Simmer gently until the white is set .sx Take it up with a slice , drain carefully , trim the edges if necessary , and serve either on buttered toast or with slices of ham or bacon .sx EGGS ON THE DISH .sx EGGS , BUTTER , PEPPER AND SALT .sx LIGHTLY butter a flat circular fireproof dish ( individual ones are best) .sx Break an egg carefully into it , sprinkle lightly with pepper and salt , and dot a few pieces of butter over it .sx Set the dish in a good oven and cook for about five minutes , or until the white is just set .sx SCRAMBLED EGGS .sx EGGS , CREAM ( OPTIONAL ) , PEPPER , SALT , BUTTER .sx BREAK four eggs into a bowl , season with salt and white pepper , and beat lightly till yolks and whites are amalgamated , but no longer .sx Put two ounces of butter in a saucepan , and when thoroughly melted pour in the eggs .sx Cook over a slow heat , stirring briskly with a wooden spoon , and being careful to scrape the sides and middle of the saucepan every second or third round .sx As soon as the eggs become slightly consistent ( they must not be over-cooked ) pour them , still stirring , on to a hot dish or on rounds of fried bread , and garnish with parsley ; or serve them in a circle of fried slices of tomato or fried mushrooms .sx They spoil if allowed to stand .sx A little cream or milk may be added to the eggs .sx SAVOURY SCRAMBLED EGGS .sx SCRAMBLED eggs may be varied in innumerable ways by the addition , for instance , of :sx Ham , previously cooked and minced .sx Chicken Livers , previously cooked in a frying-pan with a little butter , and finely chopped .sx Kidneys , previously diced and fried .sx Tomatoes , previously peeled ( after steeping for a minute or two in boiling water ) , fried in butter , and seasoned with pepper and salt .sx Asparagus Tips , previously fried in butter and seasoned with salt and pepper .sx ( Don't stir these in , but arrange round the edge of the dish .sx ) Young Mushrooms , previously peeled , sliced , fried in butter and seasoned .sx Findon Haddock , cooked and flaked .sx Prawns , freshly cooked or tinned , and chopped .sx Cheese , grated .sx Anchovy essence .sx OMELETTE .sx A FRENCH omelette is really scrambled eggs enclosed in a coat of coagulated egg .sx Break three eggs into a bowl , and to each egg allow not more than half an eggshellful of milk .sx Add a small pinch of salt and a very little white pepper .sx Beat the eggs , not to a froth , but only till the yolks and whites are thoroughly incorporated .sx Melt half an ounce of the best butter in a thick-bottomed pan which should be reserved for eggs .sx When it is quite hot , and exhales its characteristic nutty smell , pour in the eggs , and stir briskly with a fork in order to heat the whole mass evenly .sx The fire must be brisk and clear , for slow cooking makes a tough omelette .sx As soon as the edges begin to set , tilt the pan and lift them with a knife , that the butter may get below .sx Do not over-cook .sx The exterior should be delicately brown and crisp , the inside soft and creamy - in fact , only just set .sx The moment it is ready , double up the omelette quickly , and slide it dexterously on to an intensely heated dish .sx Add any garnishing desired .sx A piece of butter may be drawn across the surface of the omelette to make it glossy .sx Serve immediately , or it will sink and toughen .sx Note .sx An omelette-pan should never be washed , but scrubbed clean with kitchen paper after it has been used .sx Before using again , put it on the fire for a few seconds and scrub once more .sx SAVOURY OMELETTES .sx THE omelette may be varied in endless ways .sx Here are a few suggestions :sx Savoury Omelette ( with fine herbs) .sx Add to the beaten eggs a tablespoonful of chopped parsley , .sx chervil ( Scottice , myrrh ) , chives , and tarragon leaves , all finely chopped and mixed in equal quantities .sx Or add parsley alone .sx Mushroom Omelette .sx Peel , slice , and fry a few small mushrooms , and mix in just before the eggs have begun to set .sx Tomato Omelette .sx Put one or two tomatoes into boiling water for a minute or two , skin and slice them , removing the seeds ; cut small and mix with the beaten eggs .sx Ham Omelette .sx Add finely chopped cooked ham to the beaten eggs .sx Findon Omelette .sx Add the flaked flesh of a cooked Findon haddie to the beaten egg .sx Omelette with Chicken Livers .sx An omelette garnished with chicken livers fried in butter is delicious .sx SCOTS OMELETTE .sx FRESH HERRING MILTS , SMOKED SALMON , SALT , CAYENNE , CHIVES , PARSLEY , CHERVIL , BUTTER ; A SAVOURY OMELETTE ( " OMELETTE AUX FINES HERBES " ) .sx TAKE some fresh herring milts ; salt them , sprinkle with cayenne , and with finely chopped chives , parsley and chervil .sx Wrap each milt in a thin slice of smoked salmon , and poach gently in butter .sx Set them aslant in the centre of an omelette aux fines herbes , and roll up .sx Serve immediately .sx KIDNEY OMELETTE .sx SHEEP'S KIDNEYS , EGGS , SHALLOT , BUTTER , FLOUR , .sx MILK , GRAVY , PEPPER AND SALT .sx SKIN two small sheeps' kidneys and slice them very finely .sx Melt an ounce of butter in an omelette-pan ; peel and chop a small shallot , put it in and fry a few seconds .sx Now put in the kidneys , and toss them over the fire for a few minutes .sx Season with salt and pepper , and sprinkle with a teaspoonful of flour .sx Stir well .sx Moisten with two tablespoonfuls of gravy , re-heat and keep hot .sx Make an omelette in the usual way , using five eggs .sx When ready to fold , put the kidney in the centre , then fold over and shape neatly .sx Turn out on to a hot dish , pour the gravy round the omelette , and serve immediately .sx EGGS EN COCOTTE .sx EGG , CREAM , PEPPER , SALT , BUTTER .sx GREASE with butter some small fireproof dishes or cocottes .sx Put in a tablespoonful of cream , break in an egg carefully , sprinkle with pepper and salt , and dot with butter .sx Stand in a dish of hot water that reaches half-way up the side , and cover , leaving a small opening for the steam to escape .sx Cook in a hot oven for about ten minutes , when the white should be lightly set .sx SAVOURY EGGS EN COCOTTE .sx EGGS , CREAM OR BUTTER , COOKED HAM , PARSLEY , .sx SALT , PEPPER .sx Two ounces of ham and a teaspoonful of parsley will be enough for three eggs .sx Grease with butter as many cocottes as are required .sx Chop the meat finely , add the parsley , season , and sprinkle the moulds with the mixture .sx Break an egg into each cocotte , season with pepper and salt , and add a teaspoonful of cream or some small pieces of butter .sx Cook as above .sx For ham may be substituted minced chicken with gravy , chopped tomato , shelled shrimps with white sauce , flaked Findon caddie , green peas and butter , asparagus tips with butter , and so on .sx TOMATO EGGS .sx EGGS , BUTTER , TOMATO SAUCE , PARSLEY , .sx PEPPER , SALT .sx PUT a piece of butter the size of a hazel nut into each cocotte and leave in the oven until melted .sx Put a teaspoonful of tomato sauce into each dish , add a little finely-chopped parsley , break in an egg , sprinkle with pepper and salt , and dot with butter .sx Bake in a gentle oven till the eggs are just set .sx SCOTS EGGS .sx EGGS , PORK SAUSAGE-MEAT , EGG , BREADCRUMBS , .sx DRIPPING .sx Bon , the eggs hard as for salad .sx Peel them , dip into beaten egg , and cover with pork sausage-meat .sx Egg-and-breadcrumb them , and fry for ten minutes in deep fat .sx They may be served with or without a gravy sauce .sx Meg Dods's recipe ( 1826 ) gives a coating of forcemeat , composed of equal quantities of grated ham and breadcrumbs , seasoned with a little chopped anchovy , a pinch of mixed spice , and pepper and salt to taste , bound with beaten egg in place of sausage-meat .sx EGG CUTLETS .sx HARD-BOIL three eggs and chop them as finely as possible along with three ounces of cooked ham .sx Make a thick white sauce with an ounce of butter , an ounce of flour , and a gill of milk , seasoned with pepper and salt .sx