WINES to meet a stranger .sx To choose wines or cordials for food ranging from Moussaka to Mangoes and Artichokes to Uglies poses something of a problem .sx On the other hand , the dishes built upon these unusual fruits and vegetables have a common characteristic .sx The main course dishes are strongly flavoured and the fruits have a pleasant astringency behind their sweetness .sx This means that one should avoid choosing wines that are very dry or of delicate flavour .sx Sparkling wines do not really fit into this picture , but strong , virile wines do .sx A full-bodied wine for the main course , and a sweet wine for the fruits would be a good general rule .sx One would do well to consider the wines of Greece to match the moussaka .sx The special one , of course , is Retsina , a white wine matured in resinated casks .sx I came to love it from drinking it in the war years , but the fact must be faced , it is an acquired taste .sx My wife contends that it tastes of ping-pong balls .sx It might be a good thing to have a bottle or two for the initiated , and stick to a white dry Samos for the majority .sx The price of both is about 8s .sx 6d .sx to 9s .sx per bottle .sx They should be served cold but not over-chilled .sx A good red alternative comes from Hungary- Egri Bikaver- the dark wine from Eger known as Bull's Blood .sx It costs about 10s .sx 6d .sx per bottle .sx If you want something really strong , with a high alcoholic content , Yugoslavia produces Dinjac , but it is not a wine for weak heads !sx It costs about 8s .sx 9d .sx per bottle .sx There are also Spanish and Portuguese wines that go well with strongly flavoured foods .sx The robust Spanish Chablis , the Rioja Burgundy , and the Portuguese Vila Real Tinto are examples , all costing about 7s .sx 6d .sx per bottle .sx Russian wines are now on the market , and the red Mukuzani No .sx 4 would fit this menu well .sx It costs about the same as the Spanish wines .sx Now for the wines to go with the fruit dishes .sx For those who like a really sweet wine there is what is often called the Sauterne of the Perigord :sx Monbazillac , costing from 8s .sx to 10s .sx per bottle .sx Visitors to Vienna will perhaps remember the ancient cellars at Gumpoldskirchner- the home of the fine Rotgipfler Auslese .sx This costs about 15s .sx 6d .sx per bottle .sx Or to return to Greece , there is the famous Mavrodaphne- the Italians drink a lot of it , and you may have met it in Vienna .sx An alternative is to leave the " straight " wines out of the planning and go for some kind of a cup .sx Pride of Oporto is a pleasant and simple one .sx To produce about thirty glasses take one bottle of tawny port , half a gill of Orange Curac@6ao , one lemon , and a siphon of soda .sx Squeeze the juice of the lemon into a bowl , adding the port and Curac@6ao , then slicing the lemon into it .sx Let it stand for about 20 minutes and then serve the glasses about two-thirds full of the mixture , topping up with iced soda water .sx It is always a good thing to have a jug of non-alcoholic cup about the place .sx A simple and pleasant one can be made by mixing lemon and orange cordial in the ratio of two of lemon to one of orange .sx Before adding water , a slice of lemon and orange and a lump or two of ice , put in a couple of teaspoonfuls of " Ribena .sx " The colour combination is delightful and it enhances the flavour .sx Finally , there is the ape@2ritif , if one is needed .sx If you want to give your friends something out of the ordinary , costing less than 20s .sx per bottle , there is Pineau Imperial des Charentes , from the Cognac region .sx Alternatively , there is the more expensive- about 40s .sx per bottle- plum brandy from Yugoslavia and Hungary- Slivovitz .sx Even quite a small glass makes a party go .sx And if there is any left it is equally good as a liqueur .sx If by any chance you have difficulty in finding the drinks I have mentioned , write to Woman's Journal who will tell you where they may be bought .sx JOHN BAKER WHITE Wines worth singing for .sx THERE has never been a time when wines from so many different countries were available in Britain .sx This means that there is a tremendous field for experiment , and having a lot of fun without spending too much .sx So , in choosing wines for the four suppers , I have tried to be original and , except for the Supper Party wines , inexpensive , despite recent increases in price .sx Supper Party .sx Here perhaps one can spread one's wings a little and forget the family budget .sx As an ape@2ritif serve , chilled , a wonderful wine that comes from the Jura- namely the 1949 Cha@5teau-Chalon .sx It is the rarest wine in France , and is matured for seven years before bottling .sx A bottle will cost you about 35s .sx but it will be a wonderful experience for your guests .sx With the food I think a Portuguese Mateus Rose@2 , the pale pink wine with natural sparkle , would be fun .sx It must , of course , be chilled , and costs about 13s .sx to 14s .sx a flask .sx A very pleasant alternative would be a Franconian Steinwein , also in flasks known as Boxbeutels , and costing about 17s .sx 6d .sx It is a fairly safe bet that one of the guests will want to take the empty flask home ; they make delightful lamp bases .sx If you feel that the Cha@5teau-Chalon is beyond your pocket you could cut out the ape@2ritif and serve a glass of light non-vintage port with the Boston Cream Pie ; or perhaps even better , an inexpensive dessert wine from Cyprus called Commandaria .sx It has been made since the crusades .sx Family Sit-Down Supper .sx The mackerel is a splendid fish that deserves good treatment , and I would be inclined to accentuate the Italian accent of the main course , serving before dinner an Italian ape@2ritif that has only just come on to the British market .sx Its name is Riccadonna Bitter Vermouth , a blend of herbs with fortified wines from Canelli .sx The bottle should be iced and a twist of lemon put in each glass .sx We do not drink as much Italian white wine as we might in Britain , so I would choose a Soave Di Verona , or if you have difficulty in finding it , the sweeter Orvieto .sx Both should cost under 10s .sx per bottle .sx With the hot souffle@2 a glass of that fine but neglected wine Marsala would go admirably .sx When I was young the Royal Navy used to drink it before lunch instead of gin but nowadays most people relegate it to the kitchen , which is a pity .sx I would choose a medium-rich wine like Corona , costing about 12s .sx per bottle .sx If you can find a Malaga , then try that .sx Supper Round The Fire .sx Quite a few people hold to the view that it is a waste of wine to drink it with curry .sx I do not agree , but obviously as curry is made from spices the wine must be full-blooded to " live " with it .sx This meal has a big fruit content , so one must look also for a fruity wine .sx Before supper a glass of Madeira would go well , especially if it is a Verdelho or an Old Rich Bual .sx And with the meal itself ?sx I have mentioned the red wines of Chile before , and I do so again , because I think the Santa Rita or Cabernet would match this food .sx A good alternative would be one of the Australian Burgundies , which are sound and dependable :sx after all the Australians have been making wine for over a hundred years and send vine specialists all over the world .sx None of these wines should cost much over 8s .sx per bottle , but don't roast them in front of the fire .sx Let them " breathe " for a few hours in the room , taking up its temperature .sx After-Theatre Supper .sx It is a mistake to drink too heavy a wine before going to bed , and anyway the composition of this meal demands both lightness and flavour .sx A light , young Beaujolais would go well , all the better if it was chilled .sx In this country we raise our hands in horror at the thought of chilling red wine , but with some it is both justifiable and desirable .sx A good alternative would be a white Alsatian , such as the Sylvaner costing about 10s .sx or the drier Riesling , which is a bit dearer .sx Another alternative would be a South African medium dry white Paarl Amber , costing about 8s .sx The Cape has been producing wine for a long , long time and this " hock " is good value , and will not be heavy .sx If you want a " warmer " at the end of the meal , what about a glass of Cherry Brandy ?sx John Baker White WINES with Star Attraction .sx NOVEMBER is the first month of real Winter , liable to give us a sharp nip as a reminder of what lies ahead .sx As it can produce gales , icy winds , frozen roads , and fog we should choose our drinks on the principle of " something to keep the cold out .sx " As a Winter surprise let me suggest an original cocktail .sx Into a champagne glass put a lump of sugar , an eggspoonful of brandy , and on the sugar literally one drop of angostura bitters .sx Fill up with an iced sparkling white wine from Australia .sx Gramp's Barossa Dry Pearl , costing about 15s .sx per bottle , or Rose Pearl , at the same price , do the job jolly well .sx When you " top-up " there is no need to put in any more sugar or brandy .sx Before I consider the other dishes I must come on to the Crown of Lamb , for it is a splendid dish deserving a splendid wine .sx Recently in our own house we gave it to an internationally famous restaurateur , and served it with a 1949 Mouton Cadet .sx This is pretty hard to come by so look for a 1955 Cha@5teau Beychevelle .sx This will cost about 17s .sx 6d .sx per bottle .sx If you prefer a Burgundy try a 1955 Charmes Chambertin costing round about +1 .sx The Roast Turkey , too , demands special attention , and as it has walnut stuffing a richly flavoured wine would be my choice .sx The 1955 Louis Jadot Chevalier Montrachet " Les Demoiselles " is an excellent White Burgundy , and worth all of the 30s .sx you may have to pay for it .sx If this looks like putting your party budget out of gear , Bouchard Pe@3re et Fils 1955 Puligny-Montracet is a fine wine , costing a little over +1 per bottle .sx For the Caneton aux Cerises , some experts might quarrel with my choice , a Cristal Dry Sparkling White Burgundy , costing about 16s .sx 6d .sx per bottle .sx That great judge of wines , the late Professor Saintsbury , always had high praise for this wine .sx Should you be averse to sparkling wines I have washed down many a plump duckling from the meadows of the Loire with a Muscadet , costing about 12s .sx , or a Puilly Blanc-Fume@2 , costing perhaps 16s .sx 6d .sx These wines would , in my opinion , go well with the Poulet as well .sx Bacon with brandied peaches seems to demand one of the vintage ciders rather than a wine .sx The one I know best is the Church Farm cider from Smarden in Kent , costing 6s .sx 6d .sx per bottle .sx I have also enjoyed Bulmers Strongbow , Old Vathouse , which is not so strong and consequently cheaper .sx It is worth remembering that vintage ciders- Merrydown from Horam is another of them- are stronger than many wines .sx And a dessert wine to go with the sweets ?sx If you want to have a bit of fun , follow Commander Anthony Hogg's advice .sx Decant a bottle of Barone Ricasoli's 1953 estate-bottled Vin Santo Brolio , and ask your wine-conscious guests to tell you where it comes from .sx It will cost you about 17s .sx a bottle .sx If the night is cold you may feel like giving your guests a hot Punch .sx With me The Bishop remains a firm favourite .sx For 20 people you need :sx 2 lemons and cloves quart of Australian Gramp's Orlando Ruby dessert wine , costing 11s .sx 6d .sx per bottle pint boiling water mixed spices oz .sx lump sugar