In mid-April Anglesey moved his family and entourage from Rome to Naples , there to await the arrival of his yacht from England .sx The beauty of the place quite exceeded his expectations .sx 'I am enchanted' , he told Arthur Paget .sx 'Probably the Element [the water] has not a little to do with it , but I admire Vesuvius , which smokes and spits a little to please us , and altogether the locale is certainly charming .sx I am now looking out in earnest for the Pearl .sx . At present I am not in force .sx The fact is Italian weather is a humbug and March is ( barring Fogs ) as bad at Rome as in London .sx I fancy this place more .sx The Scene at least is superb , and if it be too cold to go out , one may at least sit and enjoy it behind the windows a@3 l'abri du vent , and with the benefit of Sun , whereas at Home every house is constructed and placed so as to have as little as possible of that very agreeable companion .sx ' By the end of the month he still delighted in Naples .sx He told Cloncurry that he enjoyed it as much as his health permitted him to enjoy anything .sx 'The Pearl' , he wrote , 'is arrived , which is a great resource .sx Vesuvius seems to be tired ; he is going out fast .sx . What a gay , lively people , and what a busy town .sx At Rome , every other man was a priest :sx here the priest is superceded by the soldier- a favourable change in my eye , particularly as the troops are very fine .sx ' When the sailing season was past , he sent Pearl back to England , and returned to Rome for the winter .sx In late November , he was 'suffering as usual' , but hoped , he told Arthur , 'to find this place agree with me better than Naples .sx The journey has been against me , as there has been much rain and damp , but the temperature is high & I have not yet thought of a fire .sx . By the by,' he added , 'what good cooks the Neapolitans are .sx I have a very good one , but alas !sx " tis all lost upon Maud !sx " The utmost extent of my eating is a little macaroni , spinage & compote de pommes , with which , however , I quite keep up my condition , altho' I sleep little & wake constantly & in pain .sx A pleasant life truly !sx .. It so happens that I have an Italian who is perhaps the best Valet de Chambre that ever was .sx But he has not one word of English .sx ' While he was writing this letter he heard of the fall of the Whigs , and the temporary assumption of the government by the Duke of Wellington .sx 'What a frightful event !sx ' he wrote .sx 'I tremble !sx What infatuation !sx Personally I am indifferent , but I really tremble for my country !sx I may be mistaken , tho' I cannot but fear that the exasperation of the People will be so great at the return of Ultratoryism , that the Commons House upon a dissolution , which must be had , will be a mass of Radicalism , & then God knows what may happen .sx . God grant , however , that I may be a false prophet & that all may go well .sx Sir R. Peel was here , I understand , but an express took him off yesterday .sx ' While he was in Naples there had opened a new chapter in the history of Anglesey's unceasing search for an effective alleviation of his painful malady .sx None of the numerous conventional remedies to which he had been subjected ever since the symptoms had first shown themselves seventeen years before had had the slightest effect .sx Nor is this to be wondered at , for even today , in the 1960s , no cure has been found for the 6tic douloureux .sx As early as 1830 , when Anglesey believed himself to be on the point of death , the new German curative method known as homoeopathy had been brought to his notice .sx In April of that year his first wife's brother-in-law , the diplomatist Lord Ponsonby , had written to advise Anglesey to give the system a trial , adding that it was being cultivated with extraordinary success in France and Italy , and that he himself was being treated under a doctor who had studied under its founder , the aged Dr. Samuel Hahnemann .sx This remarkable man of medicine , whom Sir Francis Burdett described to Anglesey a year or two later as 'more like a God upon earth than a human being' , had an increasing number of disciples among unorthodox medical men in the cities of Europe .sx One of these was the Neapolitan , Dr Giuseppe Mauro , whom Anglesey consulted in May 1834 .sx Mauro's first action was to write to his revered master at " then , near Leipzig , asking for advice .sx In doing so he described his distinguished patient and his symptoms .sx He told Hahnemann that he found Anglesey a strong , energetic man with a gentle and charming character , even-tempered and sedate , not easily irritated , patient and persevering , 'but he appears to despair of ever being cured .sx ' Only the right side of his face was affected , the pain extending from the corner of the mouth and the chin , up to the eye socket and as far back as behind the ear .sx During an attack the outer skin would become so sensitive that on being touched it felt as if something red-hot were singeing it , and the acts of speaking and swallowing became difficult in the extreme .sx North and east winds and sudden changes in the weather generally provoked severe bouts of pain .sx These were always accompanied by an irregularity of the pulse and acute constipation .sx During a bad attack Anglesey would writhe in silent agony , burying his head in his hands , the torment coming in spasms every three or four minutes , over a longer or shorter period .sx Hahnemann's reply to Mauro was to send off some medicines ( which took three months to reach Naples ) and to write personally to Anglesey stressing the need for continual outdoor exercise above all else .sx In September , Sir James Murray was replaced as Anglesey's personal physician by Dr Dunsford , an English disciple of Hahnemann's .sx He at once took over the correspondence with Hahnemann , but soon came to the conclusion that as soon as it was possible to cross the Alps , Anglesey and his party should take up residence for a period in " then .sx Consequently , at the end of April 1835 , Anglesey , accompanied only by his son Clarence , Dr Dunsford and two servants , arrived within hailing distance of the great Hahnemann himself .sx The reason for taking Clarence , who was now a young man of twenty-three , was that he too was in need of medical assistance .sx His complaints were venereal , and Hahnemann refused to prescribe for him without a personal examination .sx What success Hahnemann had in Clarence's case is not known , but after a month's treatment at " then , Anglesey seemed to be well on the way to a cure .sx This happy but impermanent state of affairs was brought about by a very careful application of the homoeopathic system .sx At that date the doctrine that 'likes should be treated by likes' , which is its essence , was completely revolutionary .sx The fact that homoeopathy utterly rejected the weapons commonly used against disease , such as bleeding , mercurialism and purgatives , ensured that 'every Apothecary' , as Lord Ponsonby put it , 'must be its determined foe .sx ' But Hahnemann had had extraordinary successes in curing diseases which had quite baffled the conventional remedies , and in Anglesey's case , by experimenting with selected medicines and meticulously noting their effects , he managed to reduce the frequency and violence of the attacks very considerably over a period of several months .sx This partial success may well have been due less to the drugs than to the cessation of the debilitating remedies hitherto employed .sx For instance , Hahnemann told Dunsford that it was 'never necessary or useful to lessen the amount of blood because it always means a lessening of energy and those forces whose reactions are all the more beneficial the more they are kept intact .sx ' This diktat , and others like it , though universally accepted today , sounded like treason in the ears of the orthodox practitioners of the 1830s , but their application was clearly the chief basis of Hahnemann's success .sx Anglesey was so impressed by what seemed a miraculous cure , that he gave Dunsford permission to publish an account of it .sx In this were detailed the various medicines tried and their effects ; Anglesey was pictured as having 'recovered the stoutness , the vigour and the activity of a young man .sx For several months he has not felt the coming on of the tic , and he has such confidence in homoeopathy that no relapse can lessen it .sx ' Though this last statement was an exaggeration , Anglesey was certainly grateful to Hahnemann for giving him the longest periods of freedom from pain he had ever had .sx It was said that he looked ten years younger and wherever he went praised the miracles which homoeopathy had wrought in him .sx By June 1835 , when he had returned to England and re-established himself at Beaudesert , he felt that his sojourn abroad had well served its purpose :sx what he called the 'wretched nerves' of his face were at last quiescent , and he knew once again the blessing of uninterrupted sleep .sx Later in the year , the idea of some sort of public employment was again in the air .sx Lady Cowper , for instance , told Princess Lieven on September 25th that Anglesey was very much annoyed at not obtaining the Admiralty in place of Lord Auckland , who had gone to govern India .sx If there was any truth in this , Lord Melbourne's letter of the following day , offering Anglesey the Government of Gibraltar , may have been a sop .sx 'It is' , he wrote , 'one of the best military situations which the Crown has to bestow- the salary has been settled .sx . at five thousand pounds yearly , it being understood that the Governor is not hereafter to be absent from his post .sx It has struck me that altho' very improbable it is not quite impossible that you might be willing to accept of this appointment .sx ' The reply was not bereft of asperity :sx 'Beaudesert , Sept .sx 27 , 1835 'Dear Melbourne , 'I have received your letter of yesterday .sx 'I am not prepared to spend the remainder of my life at Gibraltar , & moreover ( if even residence were not the condition ) , having no taste for a sinecure , I have only to thank you for the offer & to decline it .sx 'I remain , dear Melbourne , faithfully yours , 'ANGLESEY' Soon after his return from Europe , Clarence Paget had become seriously ill with a supposed abscess on the lungs .sx After months of suffering , his life was almost despaired of when as a last resort it was suggested that the patient should be taken to consult Hahnemann once again .sx It was no longer necessary to go further than Paris , for by this time the great man had been driven from his native Germany by the antipathy of his orthodox brethren .sx The main difficulty was how to make the expedition from England without killing the patient before he completed it .sx The problem was overcome in an interesting manner .sx 'Fortunately,' wrote Clarence in after years , 'the King .sx . remembered there was a luxurious old bed travelling-carriage in the royal coach-houses , which had carried his brother , George =4 .sx , and he kindly placed it at the disposal of my father .sx Into it I was put , more dead than alive , and we got across to Calais , and from thence by easy stages to Paris .sx . Dr Hahnemann was immediately summoned- a little wizened old man of seventy [he was , in fact , over eighty] , not more than five feet high , with a splendid head , and bent double- with him his wife , a remarkably intelligent French woman , who was very plain , and much younger than the doctor .sx He gave one the idea of a necromancer .sx He wrote down every symptom , examined me all over , asked ever so many questions which I had scarcely strength to answer , and took up his gold-headed cane to depart .sx My father hung upon every word , but could get nothing from him .sx