It  came  as  a  gift  , generously  and  unexpectedly .sx   The  sun  slanting  
across  the  valley  lent  a  liquid  softness  to  the  depths  below  us .sx   We  
might  have  been  looking  into  an  unruffled  lake  , 2,000  feet  of  clear  
water .sx   A  mile  distant  , where  the  valley  dropped  away  , the  Esera  made  
an  elbow  turn  to  the  south  , thus  giving  the  valley-head  its  secrecy .sx   
As  so  rarely  happens  in  nature  , we  looked  on  a  work  of  art .sx   The  very  
perfection  was  strange  ; such  things  do  not  normally  come  about .sx   We  
felt  for  the  first  time  that  unreality  , that  sense  of  a  landscape  
under  spell  , which  travellers  have  repeatedly  noted  in  these  Pyrenees .sx   
An  alpine  valley  would  have  been  groomed  and  put  to  use  , 
beautiful  in  a  different  way :sx   pastures  subdivided  into  toy-like  
rectangles  and  rhomboids  , tousled  mops  of  hay  drying  on  ash  poles  , 
ruminating  cattle  , brown  chalets .sx   Here  there  seemed  no  sign  of  life  
or  husbandry  , until  our  muleteer  indicated  , among  the  boulders  on  the  
opposing  mountain-side  , the  hut  to  which  Don  Miguel  had  secured  the  
key  , and  drew  our  attention  to  a  curious  brown  blotch  on  the  pastures  
below .sx   " Mares  , " he  said .sx   
We  descended  knee-deep  through  feathery  grasses .sx   They  parted  
easily  and  we  walked  , scattering  myriads  of  grass  seeds  , as  through  
green  foam .sx   There  were  Turk's  head  lilies  and  patches  of  iris  , 
islands  of  brilliant  blue  set  capriciously  in  the  green  sea .sx   Quail  , 
unusual  at  such  altitude  , flushed  at  our  feet  but  their  straight  
brusque  flight  , as  always  , lacked  determination  and  they  collapsed  
into  the  grass  fifty  yards  away .sx   We  were  silent .sx   One  talks  in  a  hut  
or  by  a  fire  in  the  open  , but  not  much  when  walking  or  climbing :sx   one  
is  either  too  preoccupied  , or  too  happy .sx   Going  down  to  the  Val  
d'Esera  we  were  happy .sx   
Approaching  the  valley  bottom  we  remarked  that  the  hundreds  of  
horses  pasturing  there  did  not  stray .sx   The  brown  blotch  they  made  
extended  no  more  than  a  quarter-mile  , as  though  they  were  confined  
within  this  area  by  a  mysterious  social  tie .sx   They  varied  from  cream  
to  black  and  these  colours  were  seen  against  sward  , the  curve  of  each  
back  outlined  against  the  green .sx   They  were  not  mere  quadrupeds  , for  
they  had  the  presence  of  the  animals  that  obsessed  Piero  di  Cosimo .sx   
Though  sharing  with  the  valley  the  permanence  of  art-  and  here  again  
was  strangeness-  they  seemed  to  wheel  in  continual  movement  about  an  
invisible  centre .sx   This  was  the  more  surprising  for  when  one  looked  
closely  , narrowing  vision  to  ten  square  yards  , one  detected  only  a  
shaken  mane  , a  lifted  hoof  , an  occasional  arbitrary  turn .sx   Our  route  
brought  us  to  the  fringes  of  the  herd  and  , as  we  threaded  our  way  
among  them  , I  was  glad  that  they  disregarded  us .sx   They  had  grown  
larger  , as  landowners  do  on  their  own  estates  , and  we  seemed  to  reach  
only  their  withers .sx   They  were  the  aborigines  of  the  valley  , the  
proper  owners  , and  intruding  on  their  gathering  we  were  lucky  not  to  
be  challenged  in  an  unknown  language .sx   We  trod  delicately  among  the  
cropping  beasts  , who  so  generously  ignored  us .sx   They  had  , we  found  , a  
herdsman  ; that  he  , in  his  rags  and  with  domed  mud-hovel  , could  perform  
some  useful  office  for  these  noble  creatures  seemed  improbable .sx   Here  
at  the  headwaters  of  the  Esera  to  be  human  was  a  disadvantage .sx   Less  
confident  than  his  herd  , the  man  jumped  to  his  feet  and  held  a  great  
staff  like  a  barrier  towards  us .sx   We  spoke  from  a  distance  and  he  was  
still  watching  uncertainly  ( though  of  the  herd  not  a  head  was  lifted  ) 
as  we  moved  from  the  soft  nap  of  the  valley  to  the  boulder-strewn  
slopes  of  the  Aneto .sx   In  half  an  hour  we  had  reached  the  hut .sx   
There  is  pleasure  in  an  untenanted  hut  ; in  disposing  one's  gear  
methodically  ; in  finding  employment  for  hook  , table  , and  bench  , 
perhaps  long  unused  ; in  starting  a  fire  and  creating  warmth .sx   The  
process  offers  the  satisfaction  of  moving  into  a  new  house  , but  is  
accomplished  in  an  hour .sx   It  is  a  satisfaction  rarely  to  be  enjoyed  in  
the  Spanish  Pyrenees .sx   We  little  realised  that  we  slept  that  night  in  
comfort  such  as  existed  nowhere  else  in  Aragon  at  7,000  feet .sx   In  an  
area  which  knew  little  of  climbing  history  , of  guides  , guide-books  , or  
huts  , the  Aneto  and  the  Rencluse  Hut  were  exceptional .sx   As  the  highest  
point  of  the  Pyrenees  , the  Aneto  had  been  attempted  in  the  eighteenth  
century .sx   It  had  been  climbed  in  1842  and  , though  lying  well  in  
Spanish  territory  , had  for  decades  been  a  popular  ascent .sx   The  logical  
approach  was  from  Luchon  ; the  frontier  was  crossed  , and  the  Esera  
gained  , by  a  dramatic  notch  in  the  watershed  , the  Port  de  Benasque  , a  
passage  between  rock  walls  at  some  8,000  feet .sx   Before  the  first  hut  
was  built  , people  made  their  bivouac  and  lit  their  fires  in  a  
cave-like  shelter  , 'la  Rencluse .sx '  Later  a  cabin  was  built  nearby  , 
where  the  amiable  and  rugged  Madame  Sayo  , whose  reputation  has  long  
outlived  her  , ministered  to  mountaineers .sx   Time  passed .sx   With  the  
Civil  War  the  frontier  was  closed  and  those  who  found  their  way  into  
the  region  did  not  come  to  climb .sx   When  the  authorities  regained  
control  of  the  area  , after  1945  , the  Rencluse  was  in  ashes .sx   It  had  
been  rebuilt  by  Jose@2  Abadias  , whom  we  were  later  to  meet  , patriarch  
and  innkeeper  at  Benasque  , six  hours  down  the  Esera  valley .sx   Thus  we  
slept  under  a  roof .sx   
We  woke  to  storm  and  wind  , but  even  these  can  be  acceptable  in  a  
quiet  hut  , if  days  are  not  too  precious .sx   There  is  a  frayed  rope-end  
to  re-bind  and  crumpled  flowers  to  identify .sx   Beside  the  stove  we  
pored  over  maps  ; we  talked  of  other  mountains  and  augured  hopefully  
from  other  storms  on  other  occasions  ; we  dozed  over  our  books  ; we  
slept .sx   Intermittently  we  questioned  the  barometer  and  from  the  window  
looked  at  the  struggle  above  , watched  the  battle  sway  as  the  peaks  
threw  off  the  assaulting  cloud  or  went  down  fighting  , blotted  out .sx   
When  it  cleared  towards  evening  , our  spirits  lifted  like  the  vapour .sx   
We  stepped  out  buoyantly  to  find  the  air  deliciously  clear  , rinsed  by  
the  departed  rain  and  wind .sx   Jumping  like  children  from  boulder  to  
boulder  , we  raced  along  the  mountainside .sx   Above  us  the  peaks  , hidden  
all  day  , had  returned  firm  and  confident  to  their  stations .sx   The  
valley  glistened  , no  longer  obscured  by  veils  of  driving  rain .sx   The  
mares  in  their  formal  circle  were  grazing  unconcerned  as  ever  , and  the  
herdsman  was  fishing  on  the  bank  of  the  stream .sx   Beside  him  an  
enormous  white  Pyrenean  sheep-dog  sat  on  its  haunches .sx   
That  evening  we  would  not  have  been  elsewhere  at  any  price .sx   
Though  the  weather  was  perhaps  a  little  too  warm  , the  stars  were  out .sx   
Tomorrow  we  should  climb  the  Aneto .sx   In  itself  the  climb  was  nothing  , 
un  nada  as  someone  had  airily  remarked  in  the  cafe@2  at  Le@2s .sx   
But  here  in  Aragon  there  were  no  reassuring  tracks  , no  guide-books  or  
maps  as  the  modern  climber  knows  them .sx   Imagination  was  free  to  play  
on  our  11,000-foot  mountain .sx   We  were  back  in  the  nineteenth  century  
and  this  constituted  the  very  point  of  our  expedition .sx   Having  set  the  
alarm  clock  for  three-thirty  , we  should  have  crawled  early  into  our  
sleeping  bags  , but  already  the  morning  was  with  us  in  anticipation  , 
making  sleep  difficult .sx   We  poured  more  wine  and  sat  talking  at  the  
trestle  table  , while  the  stove  purred .sx   Naturally  we  talked  of  the  
Aneto  , the  inelegant  but  convincing  massif  that  couched  above  us  in  
the  dark .sx   Draped  with  glaciers  it  stretched  three  miles  from  the  Pic  
d'Alba  to  the  Pic  des  Tempe@5tes  , and  its  backbone  dropped  nowhere  
below  10,000  feet .sx   The  crux  of  the  climb  was  the  Pont  de  Mahomet  , 
the  airy  granite  ridge  that  led  to  the  summit .sx   Presumably  the  name  
was  derived  from  the  rope  known  to  Muslim  theology  which  stretches  
over  hell  and  which  the  righteous  alone  can  cross  to  attain  Paradise .sx   
The  name  is  no  stranger  than  that  of  the  adjoining  Maldetta  , the  
Accursed  Mountain .sx   'Accursed'  they  say  because  Christ  wandering  in  
this  wilderness  , and  meeting  with  fierce  herdsmen  and  fiercer  dogs  , 
turned  the  latter  to  stone .sx   Christ  , Mahomet  , such  are  the  names  that  
shepherds  here  have  long  invoked .sx   
To  talk  of  the  Aneto  was  also  to  talk  of  the  two  friends  to  whom  , 
in  a  sense  , the  massif  and  much  of  the  Pyrenees  rightfully  belong .sx   We  
envisaged  them  , clad  in  Norfolk  jackets  , perhaps  wearing  the  
new-fangled  balaclava  helmets  , on  the  skyline  or  straddling  the  Pont  
de  Mahomet .sx   By  the  wheezing  stove  in  the  Rencluse  it  was  a  duty  to  
remember  them  , for  no  mountain  chain  has  been  so  lovingly  pioneered  as  
were  the  central  Pyrenees  by  Packe  and  Russell .sx   They  discovered  most  
of  the  region  nearly  a  century  ago .sx   Having  no  maps  , with  no  guide  but  
observation  and  a  compass  , year  after  year  they  navigated  like  sailors  
among  the  unknown  reefs  and  glaciers .sx   Their  first  ascents  are  
numberless  ; it  was  their  country .sx   Perhaps  for  this  reason  , their  
expeditions  were  not  assaults .sx   They  did  not  conquer  peaks  to  possess  
and  leave  them  , as  do  mountain  philanderers .sx   Their  climbs  were  not  a  
battle  and  a  parting :sx   they  cherished  their  mountains  and  returned .sx   
Packe  climbed  the  Aneto  six  times  ; Russell  , who  made  at  least  five  
ascents  , once  spent  a  night  on  the  summit  and  at  dawn  noted  the  snow  
blood-red  where  the  first  sun  struck  , but  deep  blue  in  the  shadows .sx   
Though  friends  , they  were  different  , representing  two  approaches  
to  the  mountains  on  which  mountaineering  has  much  depended  , the  
scientific  and  the  romantic .sx   Charles  Packe  was  geologist  , botanist  , 
cartographer  , and  scholar  ( climbing  with  Horace  in  his  pocket) .sx   He  
was  also  the  squire  of  Stretton  Hall  , the  Leicestershire  gentleman  who  
found  the  Pyrenees  more  exciting  than  the  hunting  field .sx   Much  of  this  
was  concealed  by  a  brusque  manner  , for  though  a  modest  man  he  was  not  
an  easy  one .sx   He  began  his  systematic  exploration  of  the  chain  in  
1859 .sx   When  a  companion  was  killed  on  the  Pic  de  Sauvegarde  in  the  
same  year  , while  no  doubt  perturbed  , he  was  clearly  not  deflected .sx   
Noting  Jurassic  limestone  , greensand  , names  of  rare  flowers  , 
barometric  pressures  and  making  in  the  uncharted  country  expedition  on  
expedition  , he  accumulated  knowledge .sx   It  found  expression  in  his  
first  guide-book  to  the  central  Pyrenees  and  the  first  map  of  the  
Maladetta  area .sx   At  this  remove  the  methodical  explorer  allows  a  
single  welcome  glimpse  of  the  eccentric  squire :sx   on  solitary  
expeditions  he  roped  with  " e  and  Azor  , his  great  Pyrenean  
sheep-dogs .sx   Thus  a  hundred  years  ago  , but  surely  in  misplaced  
confidence  , he  crossed  a  frozen  tarn  , and  perhaps  negotiated  the  
icefields  of  the  Aneto .sx   
'Mon  ami  Packe,'  the  phrase  recurs  throughout  the  writings  
of  Count  Henri  Patrick  Marie  Russell-Killough .sx   The  latter's  was  an  
affectionate  and  generous  character .sx   Born  in  France  , and  heir  to  a  
papal  title  , Russell  was  an  Irish  catholic .sx   These  facts  were  less  
important  to  him  than  the  works  of  Chateaubriand  , Lamartine  , and  
Byron  , and  the  mountains  which  he  always  saw  in  some  part  through  
their  eyes .sx   His  life  was  a  late  but  heroic  expression  of  the  romantic  
era .sx   From  that  era  both  his  literary  style-  for  he  had  weird  but  
considerable  talent  as  a  writer-  and  his  attitudes  derived  much  of  
their  bravura .sx   Charm  , passion  , eccentricity  , created  his  legend  ; 
there  have  been  many  less  well  founded .sx   As  a  young  man  he  wrote  
verse  , played  the  fiddle  , and  would  dance  all  night  " effre@2ne@2  
valseur  " they  said  ) before  starting  on  a  thirty-mile  walk  at  dawn .sx   
His  romantic  daemon  sent  him  briefly  and  disastrously  to  sea  , and  led  
him  in  his  early  twenties  happily  across  Siberia  , to  Australia  , to  New  
Zealand  ( where  he  was  lost  for  three  days  in  the  Alps  alone  and  
without  food  ) , to  the  Americas  , and  even  to  within  sight  of  Everest .sx   
On  his  return  in  1863  , at  the  age  of  twenty-nine  , he  first  climbed  
the  Aneto  and  met  Packe .sx   The  rest  of  his  life  was  , quite  simply  , 
devoted  to  the  Pyrenees .sx   
The  range  brought  him  something  like  European  fame .sx   He  made  at  
least  sixteen  first  ascents  , and  it  is  in  character  that  many  of  them  
should  have  been  solitary .sx